May 2025

We first heard about Herzegovina from Denis Bohm, who gave a presentation at our local RSPB meeting about his wildlife and birdwatching holidays in the region. It sounded so interesting that several of us decided we would like to go.

Day 1 — Sunday 11 

Popovo Polje Karst Field

I arrived in Dubrovnik mid-morning, where we were met by our guide Denis Bohm and most of the other guests. Some had arrived the day before, so we stopped at their hotel to pick them up. Altogether there were 13 of us, including five from our local RSPB group, and we travelled in two minibuses. Everyone was good company, and we all got along well.

After crossing the border into Herzegovina, we stopped for a packed lunch near the remains of an old Austro-Hungarian railway line from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. From there, we enjoyed stunning views over the karst fields below. After lunch, we walked through a railway tunnel that was home to a colony of roosting bats. While in the tunnel, we noticed a Southern Swallowtail butterfly that had flown in and was struggling in the darkness. Denis carefully rescued it and released it back into the daylight, where it quickly fluttered away.

We then continued on to Mostar, our base for the duration of our stay. Most of us had rooms at Liska Guesthouse, owned by Edin. However, four people had to stay at a separate location about five minutes’ walk away. The room was comfortable, but it was very noisy early in the morning.

Dinner was at the Taurus Restaurant, beautifully located overlooking the river and the small historic footbridge known as Kriva Ćuprija, which spans the Radobolja River.

Day 2 — Monday 12  

Sand Martin Colony, Buna river, Mediterranean karst region near Blagaj

We had breakfast at a nearby hotel rather than on the guest house terrace, as the brochure had suggested. It was adequate.

Our first stop of the day was at an old quarry, unfortunately marred by fly-tipping. However, the unworked areas were alive with colonies of nesting Sand Martins and Bee-eaters, surrounded by blooming poppies and wildflowers, a wonderful sensory experience.

Next, we parked in woodland beside the River Buna, where we stopped for coffee on benches lining the track. Here we saw Wryneck, Little, Middle, and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, and lots of Golden Orioles.

We walked for a while along the river, which is undergoing restoration as a leisure area as it had been during Tito’s Yugoslavia. Alas, the work has caused disturbance to wildlife and the Black Woodpecker is no longer to be seen. The sun soon became too intense, and a couple of us turned back to the shade and the benches.

Lunch was at Restoran Most, right on the river at Blagaj.

In the afternoon, we drove into the hills and walked up a dirt track with the Blagaj Fortress (Stjepan-grad), perched dramatically above us. There were Blue Rock Trush and Rock Buntings and Denis pointed out some beautiful orchids, Bertoloni’s Bee Orchid (Ophrys bertolonii) and Woodcock Orchid (Ophrys scolopax).  

In the evening, we spotted a young Dipper on the stream near the restaurant, waiting to be fed.

Day 3 — Tuesday 13

Field near Mostar airport, Hutovo Blato Wetlands

We started the day in fields near Mostar Airport, enjoying wildflowers like Yellow and Purple salsify. Bird highlights included Crested Lark, Hoopoe, and a Montagu’s Harrier that landed briefly on a fence before gliding slowly over the field.

Later, we drove to the Hutovo Blato Nature Park, stopping near a dam to walk amongst the reeds. A dark-form Cuckoo caught our attention first, and then Penduline Tits; Denis even found their nest. Terns (Whiskered, White-winged, and Black) soared over the lake, and we had excellent views of a Great Reed Warbler in full song. We also saw Squacco, Night, and Purple Herons.

After a hot picnic lunch under a tree, we took a boat ride along the river into the lake. We ended the day at a scenic lookout point before heading back to Mostar. Before dinner, Mike and I strolled down to photograph Stari Most, the famous 16th-century Ottoman bridge.

Day 4 — Wednesday 14

Blidinje Nature Park – Dinaric Alps

We took a long drive into the mountains, stopping briefly in Jablanica, where we saw the Old Neretva Railway Bridge. This has been destroyed three times: once as a ruse, once in the Second World War, and once for a movie.

After a long drive up to a mountain plateau, we stopped at a bench for coffee. Here we had great views of the area, and a Rock Bunting serenaded us from a nearby tree. After our coffee stop, we walked up a path to the edge of the plateau, where we could look out over the other side. The scenery was impressive, with open meadows and distant mountain peaks. 

We then drove on a bit further, up through a stretch of forest, stopping on the way to look at some lovely Elder-flower Orchids growing by the roadside. Eventually, we reached an open area covered in Spring Gentians and overlooking a small pond. This is where we had lunch which was a local pancake-like wrap filled with spinach and cheese, very nice.

After lunch and a look around the pond, we drove up on the other side of the plateau where we parked and walked along the track for a while. Here we had great views of a pair of Firecrests flitting about in the trees. We also managed to see a Ring Ouzel and there were lots of wildflowers.

Day 5 — Thursday 15

Source of Buna river, Mostarsko blato karst field, source of Lištica river

Our first stop was at the source of the Buna river. Denis pointed out a Rock Nuthatch nesting above the cave where the river emerges. Crag Martins and Alpine Swifts circled overhead.

Back in Mostar, we briefly stopped to observe Pallid Swifts from a bridge. Then, it was off to Mostarsko Blato karst field. We explored several areas and were thrilled to spot a Dice Snake, as well as Hobbies and Red-footed Falcons.

After lunch, we visited the source of the River Lištica where we saw the faded remains of a Violet Bird’s-nest Orchid and a tree covered with Chicken-of-the-woods fungus.

Day 6 — Friday 16

Buna–Neretva Confluence, Neretva Delta in Croatia, Neretva river

With passports in hand, we headed to the Neretva Delta in Croatia. Our first stop was the confluence of the Buna and Neretva rivers, where we saw an Eastern olivaceous warbler. A bright green caterpillar on a willow turned out to be a sawfly larva (Pseudoclavellaria amerinae), not a caterpillar at all.

Crossing into Croatia, we explored the delta—an area of reclaimed land criss-crossed with irrigation channels, orchards, and rich habitats. We spotted a Small Indian Mongoose crossing the road. This is a non-native predator introduced at the start of the twentieth centaury. Lunch was at a local restaurant.

On the return trip, we made a quick stop at Gabela Bridge near Čapljina. This is an old steel bridge and, despite our driver’s claim, not built by Eiffel! A bit further on we had a final riverside walk before heading back to Mostar.

Day 7 — Saturday 17 May

Podvelež Plateau and Prenj Mountains – Dinaric Alps

On our last full day, we headed into the Dinaric Alps. Our first stop was on the roadside where we searched for, and eventually found, a Rock Partridge, perfectly camouflaged among the rocks.

Later, at a peaceful karst field, we stopped for coffee and a walk. Here we saw lots of orchids, including the beautiful Three-toothed Orchid.

On the way back, we passed wind farms and pulled over for panoramic views of Mostar below us. There, I spotted a striking Ladybird Spider.

We had lunch at a mountain restaurant: traditional fried breads with cheese and cured ham, delicious.

Continuing higher into the Alps, the scenery was spectacular. We saw Alpine Choughs and were treated to a close fly-past by a Golden Eagle. What a memorable way to end the trip.

That evening, Denis joined us for a farewell dinner. I had told him earlier in the day that it was Norway’s national day, and he surprised us by arranging a celebratory cake with the restaurant owner, a lovely touch.

Day 8 — Sunday 18 May

Drive to Dubrovnik and Home

It was a lovely holiday in a fascinating and diverse country. We all had a great time and Denis was an excellent guide. Although he did not do a species list and location information with us in the evenings, we had a go at doing our own bird list, and the total came to around 140, including several lifers. Overall it was a wonderful experience.

---

Notes:
Pace: We were out from eight in the morning to around five in the afternoon each day so it was quite a full schedule. Although we walked four to six miles most days, it was always at a gentle pace with lots of stops, and the terrain was generally easy and manageable.
Photos: I only had my phone with me on this trip, so I wasn’t able to get close-up shots of birds. While I’ve included a couple of bird photos, the subjects are rather small and not at all sharp but they still help capture the moment.